What is Greenwater?
Greenwater is a microscopic suspended (or free-floating) algae. This phenomenon occurs when conditions are just right. It will occur if there is the right amount of nutrients like: phosphates, nitrates, and light. It is usually not harmful to the fish. The aquarium will appear green and murky. Many times you cannot see the back of the aquarium. Algae eaters do not eat it.
Since these algae feed off of nutrients in the water, the absolute worst thing that you can do is change the water. This reduces the amount of algae in the aquarium, but it also replenishes the food supply. The aquarium will remain clear for a short period of time after a water change. The algae will soon return as a result of the increased food supply.
Eventually the algae will burn itself out. This means that it will exhaust all available nutrients and die. This could take weeks to occur. Most people do not want to look at a green aquarium for this long.
Here are some recommended courses of action:
1. Treat your tank with a product called Microbe Lift Algaway 5.4 or Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Algaefix. These products are usually very effective. They are also safe to use with plants. It They are not safe to use with invertebrates. Follow the directions on the package and remember to remove your activated carbon (not all the filter media-just the carbon.)
2. Reduce or eliminate light- Algae needs light to grow. If you reduce the photoperiod, you reduce the growth rate of the algae. Eliminate all natural sunlight. Totally eliminating all light for 4 days or longer will eliminate the algae. The algae needs light to survive. It can store enough food for 3 days. Use common sense and do not create a fire hazard when covering your aquarium.
3. Non- Iodized salt- Non-iodized salt is sometimes effective against Greenwater. Salt is often used as a disease preventative. Dissolve 1 level teaspoon per gallon of water.
4. An ultraviolet sterilizer- Water is circulated through a chamber and exposed to intense ultraviolet light. This is a 99.9% effective treatment. The disadvantage to this method is that it is expensive. They usually cost between $150 and $200.
5. A diatom or micron filter- This is a filter that uses a cartridge similar to the ones used in pools and spas. The cartridge filters out the algae. This is an 85% effective treatment. These filters usually sell for a little over $50.
6. Other Algaecides- These are chemicals that kill algae. You add the chemical to the aquarium and the algae dies. Do not use this method if your aquarium has live plants. Algae are a plant. If it kills algae it kills plants. Many algaecides also kill snails, clams, and crabs, so read the label. This method works maybe 45% of the time. Some common ones to use are: Algae-a-way, No More Algae, Velvet Guard, Algae Destroyer, and Pond Blocks. Be certain that you remove the activated carbon from your filters (not the entire cartridge, just the carbon). Activated carbon will remove algaecides.
7. Freshwater Clams- Freshwater clams filter feed. This means that they feed on particles that are suspended in the water. This treatment is fairly effective, but very impractical. It would take many clams to eliminate the algae. The clams would starve after the algae are gone.
8. Reverse Osmosis Water- Reverse Osmosis (or RO) water is water that has had all of the impurities have been filtered out. Replacing a large portion of you aquarium water with RO water eliminates the algae’s food. This is the only instance where a water change may be helpful. RO water is not the same as spring water or distilled water. A beneficial side effect of RO water is that it has a neutral PH. This is a great way to maintain a low PH. Use caution, you must acclimate your fish to this water.
9. Temperature- Sometimes a gradual increase or a gradual decrease in temperature will make conditions unfavorable for greenwater to live. The important word is gradual. Sudden changes in temperature will make fish sick.
10. Live Plants- Adding live plants to an aquarium is a natural means of controlling greenwater. This method requires patience. The plants will compete with the greenwater for nutrients. Eventually the nutrients will be depleted from the water and the greenwater will starve.
These are only suggestions on ridding your aquarium of greenwater. The only one that always works is an ultraviolet sterilizer. Please let us know if you discover any other methods that are effective against this menace.
Is it hard to keep a saltwater aquarium?
It is not hard to maintain a saltwater aquarium. We have had clients as young as 12 years old that have successfully maintained saltwater aquariums. This is what is hard:
• It is hard taking time to read about and research saltwater aquariums prior to setting one up.
• It is hard to have the patience to let the aquarium become established.
• It is hard to resist buying animals on the spur of the moment, without first learning about their specific needs.
What is the average cost and size of a saltwater aquarium?
There is not a direct answer to this question. At Sea Dwellers we recommend that an aquarium is at least 30 gallons. Smaller tanks can be successfully maintained, but larger tanks are more stable in regards to temperature and water chemistry.
There are many different options to consider when setting up a saltwater aquarium. Some of the options include: aquarium size, type of filter(s), lighting, cabinetry, heaters, and other accessories. All of these options have different costs associated with them. Your choices of these options ultimately determine the cost of your aquarium. You can estimate that it will cost about 20 times the size of the aquarium you are planning on setting up (for example: a 30 gallon, 30 x 20 = $600). Remember this is a method for a rough estimate and not by any means an exact figure.
How often do you clean a saltwater aquarium?
A saltwater aquarium requires maintenance. Algae will have to be wiped off as often a twice a week. Water must be change to remove pollutants that the filters cannot remove. The size of the water change depends on the aquarium and the types of filtration that is being used. Sea Dwellers would suggest that you change 20%-25% of the water over the course of a month. This can be accomplished through one large change or several smaller changes. Changing small amounts of the water several times a month is the best choice.
How do you keep the salt level right?
We recommend that you maintain a salt level (specific gravity) of 1.020-1.025. The salt level can be measured with a hydrometer. Sea Dwellers has several different types available. The specific gravity will fall within this range if you use 1 cup of salt per 2 gallons of freshwater. Salt and water should be mixed before it is added to the aquarium. Salt does not evaporate. When water evaporates, the salt level increases. When you add freshwater to your saltwater aquarium the salt level decreases. This means only add freshwater to replace evaporated water.
What kind of water should I use?
The best choice of water to use for saltwater aquariums is reverse osmosis (R/O) water. Reverse osmosis is a type of water filtration that removes impurities. This water is available at places like Culligans, Du-mor Water Systems, Department stores and grocery stores. R/O water should have a buffer added to it before it is used.
The next best choice is city water. This is what we currently use here. We treat the water with a water conditioner to remove the harmful chemicals that the city puts into the water. We then mix marine salt into the water at the rate of 1 cup per 2 gallons of water.
We do not recommend using well water. Well water usually has high level of iron and phosphates in it. We do not recommend using spring water. We do not recommend using distilled water for anything other than to make up for evaporated water.
“How soon can I introduce fish to my new saltwater tank?”
You can introduce animal to your new saltwater tank after it has been set up for 24 hours and the temperature is between 76 and 78 degrees. Please see our handout titled “What is new tank syndrome?” Choices of animals to “cycle” a new tank are: damsels, clownfish, live rock, banded coral shrimp, pink tip anemones, and hermit crabs. You can use any saltwater animals, but these animals are known to be hardy and inexpensive compared to other choices.
What fish are compatible?
We are here to help you determine which animals will get along. Here are some guidelines that will help you to answer this question:
• Any animal will usually eat any other animal that will fit into its mouth.
• Many fish that look alike will fight with each other. However, if the aquarium is large and there are 3 or more specimens of said fish, they will probably get along.
• Do not put a fish whose diet is invertebrates in an aquarium with invertebrates.
• Every animal that you introduce to your aquarium will limit your choices of other possible inhabitants.
Do the fish die easily?
Yes. The fish can get diseases just like freshwater fish get diseases. Many of these diseases can be treated with antibiotics and copper. Unfortunately, copper and many antibiotics are toxic to invertebrates. If you have fish and invertebrates in the same aquarium you have only a few options for treatment.
1. You can catch the affected fish and medicate it in an already established “hospital tank”.
2. You can leave things alone and hope that the fish recover from the disease themselves.
3. You can use an ultraviolet sterilizer (UV). An ultraviolet sterilizer is a type of filter in which water is circulated through a chamber and it is exposed to UV light. The light kills many of the disease organisms. The fish are then able to recover from the disease via their own immune system. This option is the most used method of disease control. Using this method of filtration does not insure that you will never lose a fish.
What is live rock?
Live rock is a term used to describe rock that has been collected from the ocean. This rock may be from dead coral, volcanic activity, or even aquacultured (placed into the ocean for later collection). This rock contains many plants and animals on and in the rock. It is kept wet during shipping and arrives to our store with many of the life forms still alive. This rock is what you use to build up your own reef. This rock can become a biological filter for your aquarium. This rock can provide a food source for the inhabitants of your aquarium. The best live rock to use for your aquarium is rock that is porous. This type of rock makes a better reef because it allows for greater water circulation. Avoid dense live rock. We normally recommend at least 1 pound of live rock for every gallon of water if you plan on having a reef aquarium.
What eats algae?
There are no saltwater plecostomus. Algae does grow a little faster in saltwater and you will have to wipe the algae off a little more often. These animals do help with the algae control:
• Sally lightfoot crabs
• Emerald crabs
• Small hermit crabs
• Sea Urchins
• Lawnmower blennies
• Some surgeon fishes (tangs)
• Rainford Gobies (court jester)
What are some good books about marine aquariums that I can read?
These are some really good books to read if you want to learn more about saltwater aquariums. Sea Dwellers has these titles available for purchase.
• “The New Marine Aquarium: Step-By-Step Setup and Stocking Guide”, Michael S. Paletta
• “Marine Fishes(Pocketexpert Guide)”, Scott W. Michael
• “The Saltwater Aquarium Handbook”, George C. Blasiola
I have an oscar. What will go with it?
An oscar is member of the South American cichlid family. These fish mostly come from The Amazon River in South America. There are many members of this family of cichlids. Some, like the blue ram, do not grow very large. Others, like the oscar, can grow very large. Never put anything in that will fit in a fish’s mouth into the aquarium with it. They require a large aquarium with a few large, hard to move decorations. The plants should have stone bases. Large cichlids like to dig holes and re-arrange the tanks decorations. Heaters need to be secured with suction cups. These fish are territorial. They will claim ownership to a particular area and defend it from intruders. It is wise to re-arrange the tanks decorations when you add new fish to it. This makes it easier for the new fish to blend in with the old ones.
Here are some suggestions of fish that you can try in an aquarium together.
||Red Parrot Fish
||Large Silver Dollars
||Large Pimelodella Cats
These fish will not always get along together. Fish size, tank size, amount of decorations, which fish were introduced to the aquarium first, and the overall number of fish affect compatibility. It is your responsibility to observe the behavior of the fishes in your aquarium. If its tank mates are killing a fish, it would only make sense to remove it before they kill it.
I have an African Cichlid. What can I put in with it?
There are many different types of cichlids. The most common are South American cichlids and African cichlids. It is a good idea to keep African cichlids by themselves, with the exception of some bottom feeders. African cichlids originate from the Rift Lakes in Africa. These are densely populated lakes with a lot of rocks, which the fish use for shelter. Because the lakes have such a high amount of fish living in them, the fish have evolved to become highly territorial. The fish eat algae that they scrape off of the rocks with the teeth located on the outside of their mouths. These teeth also serve as a very effective weapon in chasing off intruders that enter the territory that they have claimed. These fish range from the tiny shell dwellers to the giant frontosa. They require an aquarium with lots of rocks and plants to use for shelter. These fish like to dig so it is best not to use an under gravel filter. Add groups of fish to the aquarium, not single specimens. It helps to re-arrange the rocks to allow the new fish to blend in with the old ones. Keep the fish similar in size and feed the accordingly. Foods containing spirulinia algae are great for African Cichlids. Here some good bottom feeders:
What is new tank syndrome?
In an established aquariums fish waste is broken down first to ammonia, then to nitrite, and finally to nitrate by bacteria colonies. Ammonia and nitrite can be toxic to fish. These colonies are not present in a new aquarium. They do develop naturally if there is a food source present. It will take approximately 4 weeks after you have added fish for them to develop. This process is what is commonly referred to as “the nitrogen cycle” or “new tank syndrome”. This paper refers primarily to freshwater aquariums, but the process is very similar in saltwater aquariums.
A tank does not have to be new for new tank syndrome to occur, it just has to be recently set up. Cleaning an aquarium too well will also produce new tank syndrome. Certain antibiotics will kill the bacteria colonies and cause new tank syndrome to occur.
There are commercially available products, which claim to speed up this process. Some common names are “Cycle” and “Bio Zyme”. Through my own experiences, these products may sometimes help, but they have proven to be unreliable. There is one product that works it is called “Bio Spira”. The best thing you can do is let Mother Nature do her job and not interfere.
There are also products that neutralize ammonia. Some common names are “Ammo Lock” and “Amquel”. They do neutralize ammonia but do not eliminate the cause (fish waste). It is more stressful on the fish to have the ammonia levels fluctuate than to have them high. These products also cause test kits to give false readings, so we do not recommend them.
Starting your aquarium.
The first thing that you should do is to get your aquarium set up, before you purchase any fish. Get water in your aquarium. Install the filters per the manufacture’s instructions. Install the heater and set the temperature to 76 to 78 degrees. Add a water conditioner like “Prime” or “Start Right” or “Stress Coat” if you have city water. If you do not have city water, it still would be a good idea to use one. Most well water is all right to use, even if it is softened water. Let everything run for at least 24 hours.
Now it is time to add the fish. At this time you only want to add a few hardy expendable fish. Do not purchase anything that will cost a lot of money, because there is a strong possibility that not all of the fish will make it! Be certain that you tell the sales person that you have just set up your aquarium. They can make some recommendations as to which ones will do best.
|Some Good Starter Fish
||Some Bad Starter Fish
|Black /Red Eye/Head and Tail LiteTetra
Add the fish to your aquarium. Make sure that you acclimate the fish by floating the bags in your tank for about 20 minutes. Next add some of your water into the bag from your aquarium. Wait another 20 minutes. Add only the fish to your aquarium, never anyone else’s water.
Now would be a good time to add a disease preventative. We use “Aquari-Sol”. This will reduce the chance of your fish getting sick. Add it every time that you add fish to the aquarium or do a water change.
Make sure that you feed the fish once per day. Only feed them what they will eat in 5 minutes. If there is food left after 5 minutes, you should remove it with your net and feed them less next time. Uneaten food will cloud the water and make the ammonia level too high. Too much ammonia burns the fish’s gills and they suffocate.
Give the fish at least 8 hours of darkness per day. Fish do not have eyelids. They need darkness to sleep. Too much light will also make a lot of algae grow and you will have to clean the aquarium more often.
After 2 weeks, bring in some water and we will test it. We can show you how your tank is doing and give you advice based on the results. It usually takes at least four weeks for the nitrogen cycle to be complete. So do not get your hopes up too soon.
After about four weeks you will notice golden brown stuff growing on the glass and on the decorations. This is algae and it is a sign that your aquarium is probably ready for an algae eater. Bring in some water around this time and we will test it for you. If your aquarium is not ready at this time, it will be soon.
Things to Remember:
• Any fish will eat any other fish that will fit in its mouth.
• It takes as much time to take care of a small aquarium as it does a big one. Also, a big aquarium has room for more fish.
• Do not mix goldfish with tropical fish. Goldfish like cool water. Tropical fish like warm water.
• Barbs, Gouramis, and Danios are known fin nippers. Do not mix them with fish that have long fins like Angelfish, Guppies, and Male Bettas.
• Do not overfeed.
• Do not overcrowd. A good rule to go by is one and a half inches of fish per gallon of water.
• Fish swim horizontally, not vertically. Tall aquariums look impressive, but are hard to clean and cannot house as many fish as a horizontal aquarium of equal size.
• Know the dimensions of your aquarium. This will make it easier to buy accessories in the future.
• Do not put the aquarium in front of a window. The sunlight will affect the temperature and make a lot of algae grow.
What can I do if my aquarium gets too hot?
This is a common question we are asked in the summertime. The best answer is to have an aquarium chiller or air conditioning. However these options are not available to everyone. We do have a few suggestions that may help keep the temperature down.
You must decide if the temperature is to warm. Most fish will live at temperatures into the 90’s. Goldfish, Koi, and coldwater fish are exceptions. Observe your aquarium inhabitants for signs of distress before making a decision to take any action.
Don’t unplug your heater! If your heater is set right and functioning properly, it will only turn on if the temperature gets below the set level. We sell a lot of ick medicine in the fall because people unplug their heaters and forget to plug them back in when the weather gets cool.
The major cause of ick is temperature fluctuation. Keep this in mind when trying to cool the aquarium. Any change that we cause in temperature should be gradual.
Here are some things, in addition to room temperature, that cause the aquarium to become warm: Lights, Pumps and Power heads, and Direct Sunlight. Lights can be shut off for a few days at a time or they can be run only at night when the temperature is lower. Adding curtains or blinds can remedy direct sunlight. In most cases it is not a good idea to shut off your pumps.
You can direct a fan at the aquarium to help cool things down a little. The lid can be left open to help the aquarium cool (you take a risk of fish jumping out). If you have a wet dry filter leave the stand doors open. Adding an air pump with an air stone can help to cool the aquarium down. This also adds oxygen to the water. The warmer water becomes the less oxygen it is able to hold.
I know of people who place small amounts of ice in plastic bags and float them in the aquarium. The ice is replaced after it has melted. People with large aquariums can use small ice packs. This must be performed in small amounts on a consistent basis to prevent too much temperature fluctuation.
Why do my incandescent light bulbs keep burning out?
We get asked this question quite a bit here at Sea Dwellers. The main cause of incandescent light bulb failure is a broken filament. This happens when you move the light fixture when the bulb is hot. The proper procedure for moving an incandescent fixture is as follows:
1. Turn off the power to the light.
2. Wait at least 10 minutes for the light fixture and the bulb (s) to cool down.
3. Move the fixture to the desired position. Be gentle with the fixture and do not cause any strong vibrations or impacts while moving it.
4. Perform maintenance on the aquarium/terrarium/animal cage.
5. Gently return the fixture to its normal place.
6. Turn the power back on.
Following these steps will increase the life of your incandescent light bulbs.
On aquariums it is also recommended to put a thin coating of petroleum jelly on the light bulb threads. This keeps moisture from getting into the fixture and will result in a longer light bulb life.
Sometimes it is the fixture itself that is the problem. Inspect the fixture for obvious signs of corrosion such as rust and burn marks. Never use a fixture that looks this way.
Is there copper in my tap water?
Copper is toxic to invertebrates. Some invertebrates are affected more than others. Low levels of copper can be fatal to xenia, star polyps, soft corals, shrimp, and snails. Hermit crabs, sea urchins, and LPS corals can endure a little higher levels of copper. Copper is not toxic to fish at low levels.
Copper comes from well water, chemical additions in municipal water supplies, the inside of your water heater, and from your plumbing. Water softeners do remove copper if they are functioning properly. Copper is also used as a medicine to cure parasite infestations and to kill algae.
We have helped more than a few customers identify that there is copper in their tap water. You probably have copper in your water if snails suddenly die after a water change. You probably have copper in your water if soft corals and shrimp do not live very long in your aquarium. The question can be answered with a quick test that takes 5 minutes to perform. Will we perform this test for free. Just bring us a sample of your tap water. We also sell copper test kits at a very reasonable price if you would like to purchase one for yourself.
Here are some possible solutions if you find that there is copper in your tap water:
• Activated carbon, Chemi-Pure, and Bio-Chem Zorb all remove copper (and many other harmful chemicals) from water. Many of you already use these products in your aquarium. You must remove the copper from the water before adding it to the aquarium. Filter the water with one of these products for 24 hours before using it in your aquarium.
• Water softeners remove copper from water if they are functioning properly.
• Water from an alternative source can be used. You could get your water from a friend or relative who does not have copper in their water. You could also use reverse osmosis water. This can be purchased from many different places. Reverse osmosis filter are also available. Talk to our staff for directions on how to use reverse osmosis water.
Through our own experiences here at the store we have discovered this simple fact:
“Water quality in the aquarium can be increased by using quality water to fill the aquarium.”
Why and How Should I Use Reverse Osmosis In My Aquarium?
Tap water can (and usually does) contain impurities that are not advantageous to your aquarium. Impurities can include: copper (toxic to invertebrates), nitrates (harmful to invertebrates in high levels and makes algae grow) and phosphates (makes algae grow). Here at Sea Dwellers and Friends we use reverse osmosis water in all of our marine aquariums. We also use it in many of our freshwater aquariums.
Reverse osmosis is a type of water purification. This process removes most of the harmful impurities that are found in tap water. Reverse osmosis water has a very low Ph and a very low carbonate hardness. These low levels make it very easy to adjust the Ph to whatever level that you desire. This is great for freshwater when you are trying to adjust the Ph to a low level. You should add a buffer if you are trying to maintain a freshwater Ph above 7. The buffer that we use is a Kent Marine product called RO Right.
However, for marine aquariums you should add a buffer to the reverse osmosis water before you add it to the aquarium. We use a Kent Marine product called Osmoprep Marine. This is an inexpensive powder that buffers the Ph and carbonate hardness to levels normally found in seawater. Synthetic sea salt already contains these buffers, but some salt companies use lower quality buffers to make their product cheaper. These buffers may not last that long and could lead to fluctuations in the Ph and carbonate hardness levels. This is why we use a buffer-even if we may not actually need it!
Some people use a milk jug with a couple of inches of aragonite gravel (Carib Sea) in the bottom to store their top off water. The aragonite slowly dissolves into the water and increases the Ph and the carbonate hardness. This is another way to buffer small quantities of reverse osmosis water for your marine aquarium.
Personally, I perform 5-gallon water changes on my aquarium. I have a spare submersible heater that is set to the same temperature as my aquarium. Reverse osmosis water is put into a 5-gallon bucket, Osmoprep and salt is added to the water, and the heater is plugged in on the day before a water change. The old water is siphoned out of the aquarium into another 5-gallon bucket and the new water is added to the aquarium from the other bucket. The pump does not even have to shut off because the sump holds 7 gallons. The aquarium inhabitants are not stressed by any temperature or salinity fluctuation. The aquarium does not even get cloudy because the new water was mixed up a day before.
We sell reverse osmosis water or it could be purchased from any box store or water filtration store. We recommend purchasing your own home filtration unit so that you may also benefit from the water. Since I started using reverse osmosis in my home there has been no calcium deposits in my coffee maker, the coffee tastes better, and there is no white residue left behind when ice cubes melt in your drink.
What is a freshwater bath?
A freshwater bath is when you put a saltwater fish into fresh water for a brief period of time. This procedure is usually done to treat or prevent external diseases. We recommend this as part your acclimation procedure.
- Prepare a small amount of freshwater by conditioning it and synchronizing the temperature with your aquarium temperature.
- Remove the fish from the aquarium or the shipping bag (after properly acclimating it) and put it into the freshwater.
- Leave the fish in the fresh water for approximately 3 minutes. Keep the fish up and swimming around during this time.
- Net the fish and introduce it to the aquarium after the 3 minutes has passed. Always release fish head first from the net.
- Discard the water after you are done with it. Do not add it to the aquarium. Never add shipping water to your aquarium.
This procedure is safe for marine fish. Do not subject invertebrates (anemones, starfishes, sea urchins, snails, etc.) to freshwater baths.
The time can be adjusted to suit your individual preferences. Some books recommend freshwater baths as long as 20 minutes. We have found three-minute baths to work great for us.
Do You Ship fish?
We do not currently ship fish. We focus our efforts on quality rather than quantity. Moving too many fish through our facility will lower the quality of our livestock. We do have the ability to pack fish for shipping. We have many customers that come from over an hour away and we use oxygen and styrofoam boxes to insure their purchases make it home in good condition. Make sure you let the staff know if it is going to be over an hour before you get your livestock purchase home.
When do you get your fish shipments?
We have several suppliers we use on a regular basis. Shipments could arrive any day of the week depending on which supplier we are using that week. Visit our store on weekends for the best selection.
Do you special order fish?
We have a "Wish List" that we keep for our customers. We will add your name and the type of fish you desire. We will call you when we get that type of fish and give you first shot at purchasing it. The list is not a guarantee that we will get the fish, but it helps us know what our customers are trying to find. Talk to one of the staff and let them know what you are trying to find. They will gladly add your wish to the list.
Do you sell Glo Fish?
Yes we do. We usually stock all colors of Glo Fish: green, orange,blue, purple & red. We also stock the Green Glo Tetra. Visit : http://www.glofish.com/ to learn more about these beautiful fish.
Is your company on Twitter?
Is your company on Facebook?
Is there a Sea Dwellers and Friends in Fort Wayne?
No. There is a company called Sea Dwellers,LLC. It is primarily a maintenance company. It is owned and operated by James Graham. He taught me much of what I know about keeping fish. They do not have retail hours.The phone number is 260-482-8891,http:///seadwellers.net/
What Are Bonus Bucks?
Bonus Bucks are cash discount coupons that can be used on future purchases. They are basically the same thing as a gift certificate.They are printed on the bottom of your register receipt. The percentage of the coupon, the time required before the coupon becomes valid, and the expiration amount will vary depending on the type of promotion we are running.
Do you buy fish?/Do you buy pets?/Do you take trade ins?
We are only accepting donations at the current time. Please call ahead to make arrangements.
What is your guarantee on fish?
Do you guarantee your fish?
We have a 72 hour guarantee on freshwater fish, unless specified. We do not guarantee fancy plecos, discus, pond fish/goldfish, marine or other delicate species. Our guarantee does not cover death due to aggression from tank mates- it is customer's responsibility to observe and protect new additions to their aquarium regardless of what they were told by our staff. We will hold fish for observation prior to purchase at the customers request. Our guarantee is limited to replacement of the fish. We will only replace a fish once. The identifiable body of the deceased fish and receipt are required for replacement. We must be notified and body must be preserved (frozen) if you can not return it to us within the 72 hours.
Does Sea Dwellers re-seal aquariums?
We do not re-seal aquariums. We do offer HOT SHEET SPECIALS that are sometimes less expensive than what someone would charge you to re-seal an aquarium.
Does Sea Dwellers and Friends drill holes in aquariums?
We do drill holes in acrylic aquariums. The fees for this service vary depending on size and number of holes.
We do not drill holes in glass aquariums. We are able to order aquariums with overflows built into them.
Where can I find out information on Indiana's laws and regulations concerning reptiles and amphibians?
I have to get rid of my saltwater aquarium. Will you buy my live rock?
We do not buy liverock from hobbyists. Experience has taught us that it can lead to serious problems for us. Sometimes, not always, undesirable organisms (flatworms, aptasia, bristle worms, etc.) become concentrated in a closed environment. Our limited holding facilities can become infested before we notice what happened. We will take live rock if it is donated to us. We then dry it out and sterilize it. It is then sold as dry base rock. This process takes extensive labor. That is why we do not pay anything for it. We have learned that wild rock is a much better product for us to market to our clients.
We will be glad to post any adds or flyer you may have on our bulletin board. We do this as a service to our clients for free for a period of 30 days. You are welcome to e-mail us a flyer or stop by and put it up yourself.
Our school/non-profit group is having a goldfish booth at our event. How much do they cost?
Goldfish For Carnivals
We are frequently asked if we can supply goldfish for school carnivals. Here are the options we currently provide for schools or non-profit organizations:
We can supply you with free goldfish coupons at no charge. These are coupons that can be redeemed at Sea Dwellers and Friends for a free goldfish. This is the best option for everyone involved (including the goldfish!). Just contact us and we will make arrangements for you to pick up the coupons.
OPTION#1-The goldfish can be packed together in large plastic bags. We recommend that you bring large coolers to transport the goldfish. Goldfish purchased this way are 20 cents each. Bags and rubber bands can be purchased for an additional fee of 10 cents each. We will be happy to show you how to bag the fish. Goldfish can be pre-ordered and picked up on the event date. We require a pick up time to ensure that we can have your order ready at the desired pick up time. We need at least a weeks notice to make sure that we can adjust our inventory to meet your needs.
OPTION#2-The goldfish can be individually packed with oxygen in small plastic bags. This method of packing will allow the goldfish to survive in the bag for at least 12 hours provided they are not exposed to temperature extremes. We recommend that you bring large coolers to transport the goldfish. Goldfish purchased this way are 39 cents each. Goldfish can be pre-ordered and picked up on the event date. We require a pick up time to ensure that we can have your order ready at the desired pick up time. Individually bagging a large number of goldfish requires a large amount of time and resources. We need at least a weeks notice to make sure that we can adjust our inventory to meet your needs.
OPTION#3-Goldfish shipments arrive every Wednesday afternoon. This is when the quality will be best. The quality of the goldfish declines every day that we hold them here in the store. Other supplies you may need for your event could include: air pump, air diffuser, fish net, fish food, water conditioner, large plastic tub, buckets, coolers, bags, and rubber bands.
What do I do if I find a baby or an injured animal?
What to do if you find a baby orinjured animal
By “rescuing” an injured orapparently abandoned baby wild animal, you may doing the opposite of what youseek to accomplish, and break the law.
This time of year, thousands of animals are born in the wild. With the spreadof suburban areas into their natural habitats, young animals are increasinglyborn near humans, who are more apt to discover them without an adult animalnearby. When this happens, a few reminders are especially pertinent.
While some baby animals may be orphaned or abandoned, that’s not always true.
Picking up a baby animal that is not orphaned or abandoned is not only usuallyunnecessary, it can be bad for the animal. It's also illegal if you don't havethe proper permit or take the animal straight to a licensed wildliferehabilitator.
Such animals also pose safety and health risks for humans. They may lookhelpless, cute and cuddly, but they can bite or scratch people who attempt tohandle them. Some wild animals carry parasites and infectious diseases, some ofwhich can be transmitted to humans.
"The apparent lack of an adult does not mean a young animal isorphaned," said Linnea Petercheff, operations staff specialist for the DNRDivision of Fish & Wildlife. "Adults often leave their young alone,safe in nests or dens while they forage for food, but rarely do they abandontheir young."
If a bird has fallen out of a nest, it is OK to gently return it to the nest.The best way to make sure an animal is truly orphaned is to wait and check itperiodically. If you are unsure, place some strings or sticks across the nest.Place some grass across the top of a rabbit nest that is found with young init.
If such items are later disturbed, the mother has probably returned. In such asituation, leave the young animal alone. The adult will return after you leavethe area. As an example, rabbits often come to the nest to feed theiryoung only a couple of times a day.
The best way to make sure that a fawn that appears to be alone is trulyorphaned is to wait and check it periodically. Before taking any action,remember the following:
–If the fawn is not injured, the mother is likely nearby.
–Leave the fawn alone and its mother will probably come and get it. Deer cantake better care of their young than a human can.
–Human scent on the fawn will not prevent the mother from taking care of it.
–If you do not see any deer nearby, have someone watch the fawn without beingseen by the mother. In most cases, the mother will come back and get the fawnafter you leave the area.
If you believe the mother has not returned to a nest or a deer has not comeback to feed her fawn, or you know that the mother is no longer alive, call alicensed wildlife rehabilitator listed at: www.wildlife.in.gov.
Remember, state laws prohibit keeping protected wild animals without a permit.Most species of wildlife are protected by law and cannot be kept as a pet.Federal laws also prohibit possession of migratory birds, including songbirds,raptors and waterfowl. It is even illegal to treat wild animals for sickness orinjury without a permit.
Wild animal rehabilitation permits are issued to qualified individuals who takein sick, injured, or orphaned wild animals with the intent of releasing themback into the wild.
If you encounter an injured, truly abandoned or sick wild animal, do one of thefollowing for assistance:
–Check the DNR website, www.wildlife.in.gov and click on "Wildlife Rehabilitation" For more information: Marty Benson, DNR assistant director ofcommunications, (317) 233-3853.
–Call the DNR Division of Fish & Wildlife in Indianapolis, (317) 232-4080.
–Call your DNR law enforcement district headquarters or regional headquarters;contact information is at: http://www.in.gov/dnr/lawenfor/2755.htm
–Call a licensed veterinarian for immediate assistance with a sick or severelyinjured wild animal.
Why can't you sell anacharis(elodea) plant or water hyacinth anymore?
My Reptile/Snake has mites. How do I get rid of them?
Can you order custom aquarium stands at Sea Dwellers?